Adventure Cycling in Enchanting Tuscany

On November 29, 2011, In Biking & Hiking, From Rails to Sails: Europe Go Travel Direct with Kids, By Sylvia Arad

Biking in Tuscany

To venture into Tuscany’s enchanting Chianti region, situated between Florence and Siena, is to discover a cyclist’s paradise.  Biking routes abound for those who wish to cycle off-the-beaten-path in a region painted in picture perfect panoramas of vineyards, olive groves and vast farmland.  A maze of winding biking trails and rural roads meander through the rolling valley terrain, gradually leading to hilltop towns.   Stretching throughout Tuscany, cycling routes range in levels from easy to strenuous for amateur to veteran cyclists.

Vineyards in Chianti from Wikipedia by H. Hoffmeister

In this sun-drenched region with its green patchwork of lands, there is much to see and do while cycling.  Breathtaking vistas of ochre fields punctuated by swathes of red poppies and golden-ripe sunflowers serve as the backdrop to magnificent panoramas of ancient villages perched on the hillsides.   Lined with the occasional oak and olive groves, the roads unfold into an infinite  horizon of  verdant and wine colored grapevines.

Greve in Chianti

The Chianti Loop circles through medieval towns steeped in regional history.  Encircled by their ancient ramparts, these villages boast clusters of Romanesque churches, abbeys, castles and fortresses.  In the heart of Tuscany,  Greve in Chianti, a large market town, sits at the crossroads of an ancient trade route between Florence and Siena.  Delightful communities, such as Montefiorale and Panzano surround the town, where castles turned patrician homes spatter the landscape. In its stone houses and paved streets, Montefiorale reflects its medieval architecture, and Panzano’s Romanesque church of San Leolino is home to precious works of art.

Montefiorale view from Greve

Fresco in the Church of San Leolino, Panzano from Wikipedia by Vignaccia76

From Greve, loop through the main Chianti towns.  Castellina in Chianti is nestled around a 13th century castle.  The town’s origins date back to Etruscan times, its importance due to its strategic location.  Along the ancient ramparts, the towering fortress offers stunning countryside vistas, and an impressive underground tunnel, the Via delle Volte,  wraps around the city, today housing shops and restaurants.  This is the spot for a short break for tired limbs and taste a delicious gelato.

Fortress in Castellina from Wikipedia by Vignaccia76

Castellina, Viale delle Volte

A long descent with sweeping panoramas of vineyards and olive groves across the Val d’Elsa (Elsa Valley), followed by a gradual ascent,  terminates in Colle Val d’Elsa, a village famed for its crystal glassware.  Perched on a hilltop overlooking the Elsa River, Colle Val d’Elsa, a historic town on the Via Francigiena, the road used by pilgrims from Rome to northern Europe, developed in three districts.  Upper Colle preserves its 14th and 16th century fortifications, buildings, old gates and medieval sights, such as the ancient tower house and Campana building, which are architectural masterpieces.  From here, San Gimignano is just a short jaunt away.

Colle Val d'Elsa with dominating Tower

Looping around, the Chianti biking route continues to Radda in Chianti, a beautiful town enclosed in large defensive ramparts.  Characterized by its narrow streets converging into a main piazza, Radda maintains its medieval charm.  Numerous castles and churches, among them the castle of Volpaia and the Romanesque church of Santa Maria in Prato, nestle in the surrounding hills.  Not far, Monteriggioni conforms perfectly to the model image of a walled community, with its ramparts and towers virtually intact and giving way to original attractive buildings.

Monteriggioni - view from Radda

After an arduous day of cycling, the Badia a Coltibuono, historically a monastery, offers the perfect end to an adventure-packed day.  Famed for its wines and prized olive oil, the Badia features agrotourism accommodations in a gorgeous setting to relax with a drink, take in the view and spend the night.

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Unique Vacations at Lake Trasimeno

On November 15, 2011, In Biking & Hiking, From Rails to Sails: Europe Go Travel Direct with Kids, Water Adventures, By Sylvia Arad

Nothing quite compares to sitting at a lakeside café on Lake Como or taking in Italy’s alpine lakes; yet Lake Trasimeno, set in Italy’s green heart, will not disappoint. Nestled amidst Umbria’s verdant rolling hills and bordering Tuscany, the clear blue waters of Lake Trasimeno reflect the dark green slopes, vineyards and olive groves of its surroundings.

Picture of Castiglione del Lago  thanks to Parpan05 from Wikimedia Commons and Ookaboo!

The largest lake in central and southern Italy, Lake Trasimeno is a perfect base for  adventure travel in Umbria and nearby Tuscany, where some great family holidays begin.  Though it never gets very deep, with no more than 20 ft. at its deepest spot, the lake provides ample opportunities for water sports, hiking or just relaxing along its lovely beaches.  Swimming, sailing, kayaking and surfing are among the water sports on offer in a lake whose shallow waters make it an ideal spot for adventure with children.  The unspoilt countryside surrounding the lake features lovely hidden biking trails where wooded hills are home to wild boar, deer, porcupines, hares, toads and owls.  Leisurely hiking on the hills that line the lake open to nature at its best, with the myriad of colors of heather and rock roses in bloom and the intense fragrance of broom throughout.

Boating on the Lake - Just One of Many Activities

Ducal Palace

The picturesque towns which dot the hills bordering the lake provide breathtaking panoramic views, as well as a glimpse into the region’s rich cultural heritage.  Castiglione del Lago, surrounded by towering fortified walls, is dominated by its medieval fortress and its 15th century Ducal Palace, housing original frescoes.  A walk on the walls offers striking panoramic views of the lake.  Panicale strategically perched on a hilltop and a fortified castle originally, was especially important to Perugia in the13th and 14th century as it controlled the valleys of Lake Trasimeno and the Nestore River.  In Panicale, art is everywhere.  Among the most famous works is a fresco painted by Perugino in 1505.  It adorns the back wall of the Oratory of San Sebastiano.  Piegaro houses a beautiful glass museum, originally a 13th century glass factory.

Castiglione del Lago by Eulenjager from Wikimedia Commons

Piegaro Photos
Piegaro Glass Museum. This photo of Piegaro is courtesy of TripAdvisor  

Just across the border in Tuscany, the pretty town of Chiusi features an interesting and not too large Etruscan Museum as well as an underground system of former water channels.  Lake Trasimeno’s north shore is home to 2 charming villages – Tuoro and Passignano, both featuring historic buildings as well as offering spectacular lake views.

View of the Lake from Castiglione by by Schwarzer Kater from Wikimedia Commons

Set in Umbria, a region of unspoiled farmland country and half-hidden retreats as yet protected from the havoc of tourism, Lake Trasimeno provides the perfect base for adventure outdoors, splendid panoramic views and the opportunity of discovering the rich history and culture of its surroundings.

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Short City Breaks: London- Stopover to Adventure

On November 4, 2011, In City Breaks, From Rails to Sails: Europe Go Travel Direct with Kids, By Sylvia Arad

On your way to an African Safari, a tiger watching expedition in India or even a hike and bike holiday in Italy, why not stop over in London, a perfect beginning or end to your adventure travel holiday.  With endless activities, lovely parks and attractions geared to the entire family, London is an amazing destination packed with adventures waiting to happen.

Starting out, the best way to get a broad overview of the city is on the open air, double decker hop-on-hop-off bus. These  buses provide easy transportation with the opportunity to stop, get off and see the sights as you go along, and hop back on at your convenience.

Hop on and Off on the London touring bus

London’s multitude of museums provides a fun and educational experience, with over 70 of these providing free admission.  With so many museums from which to choose, the question is which to pick when time is short.  The Natural History Museum has countless attractions to mesmerize all ages.  Youngsters find it fascinating, with its dinosaur skeletons, its discovery trails and crafts workshops.  Hands-on exhibits include, among others, a Human Biology gallery, a Creepy Crawlers exhibit, an Earth Hall and a science centre.

Mammal Room in the Natural History Musuem photo byBrendan Adkins Wikipedia

London Docklands Museum - West India Quay

Housed in a 200 year old warehouse recently turned museum, the London Museum at Docklands reveals the city’s long history as a port, and the story of the Thames River and the docklands throughout the ages, beginning in Roman Times.  Exhibits include replicas such as one of a 19th century port, and the sugar slavery, showcasing London’s involvement in international slave trade.   The museum is a hidden treasure with its unusual displays, re-creations and tours.  Another museum gem is the London Transportation Museum, housed in Covent Garden.  With live models of the city’s various means of transportation since 1800 – buses, trams, trains taxis, as well as an interactive ‘futures’  gallery, this museum is a wonderland for children.  Follow a trip to the museum with a walk around Covent Garden with its antiques and crafts shops, and its entertainers including outrageous juggling and mime acts.

Covent Garden Market

Plan on visiting the Tower of London, which provides a full education into medieval times in the city.  This ancient fortress, with its gruesome association of legendary figures who were imprisoned or executed here presents the best ‘haunted house’ in Britain – ghoulish headless torsos, phantoms, icy blasts and clanking chains meet you throughout.  The Jewel House offers one of the best attractions in the tower, with the crown jewels of stones set in robes, swords,  and crowns.

Panoramic view of London Tower with London Bridge

London offers a vast variety of public parks, as well.  Three of the best for family fun include Kensington Park, with its pirate ship; Regent Park housing a zoo, and Hyde Park, where fishing and boating is popular.  Before leaving London, however, the London Eye is not to be missed.  The world’s highest ferris wheel at 135 m. (443 ft.), it provides a 30 minute slow-moving ride with panoramic vies of the city and afar.

London Eye at Twighlight photo by Diliff from Wikipedia

For your short city breaks, London offers a myriad of accommodations, from exclusive hotels and apartments to basic inexpensive lodging   to meet the needs of every age and type of traveler.  The city presents a great stopover destination on your way to that adventure travel holiday or to relax at the end of your expedition.

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Family Touring in a Campervan in the Lake District in Cumbria, England

On January 18, 2011, In From Rails to Sails: Europe Go Travel Direct with Kids, Outdoor Adventure Travel, By Sylvia Arad

To truly experience the glorious countryside of modern day Britain one must see the magnificence which the Lake District has to offer and in the tight confines of the family camper van, you will journey through this glorious landscape together. Is there any greater joy experienced on a holiday than togetherness?

Undoubtedly, there are sights to capture the imagination of all the family, including the Lake District`s famous bodies of water. The subtle elegance which radiates from these majestic features is one of the main attractions of the Lake District and places like Bassenthwaute Lake and Crummock Water are examples of these. There is also the mountainous side to the Lake District which makes it such a getaway from modern society, as if travelling back to a more tranquil time, wandering through the vast peaks which encapsulate the natural surroundings. At their highest, these peaks can reach over 900 metres and include renowned locations such as Scaffell Pike, Great Gable and Great End.

Bassenthwaite Lake

Great End

Hiking in the Lake District

Activities which may be of interest in this region include things like climbing, mountaineering and cycling. The terrain is obviously hilly and wet, therefore to counteract these factors, as well as the varying weather, appropriate clothing is required to give adequate protection from the weather and minimise risks. These activities encompass the whole family`s enjoyment, yet we must remember that they require specialist attire. Warm fleeces and coats are highly recommended at high altitudes, hiking boots, thermal socks and gloves are also essential items when walking the Lake District.

Whilst in the comfort of an RV, the required provisions necessary for the trip should be made easily available. The stereo-type on RV or camping holidays is to bring freeze-dried food, however with the RV refrigerator you can safely get away with far more interesting fare. The Lake District also provides a whole host of interesting places to eat, from simple road side cafes to top class Michelin star restaurants.

Langdale Pikes

On-board entertainment is a major part of the RV family experience and what better way to pass the night hours away than to bring a few board games, even cards, things which encourage the close group dynamic present within an RV holiday. Of course, while you are not enjoying the beautiful landscape, these activities provide a simple but effective way to have fun and, paired with the awe-inspiring scenery, create fantastic RV holiday memories. There is also the option to bring portable DVD or home entertainment on-board and watch while cruising the Lake District.

RV family holidays are an excellent way to experience places like the Lake District. Certainly, car rental in Manchester and other major local cities will be able to supply you with a suitable RV at very reasonable prices, so there is no need to purchase your own to enjoy this fun form of holidaying.

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Family Adventure Travel Sailing the Turquoise Coast

On December 7, 2010, In Eastern Mediterranean Adventures, From Rails to Sails: Europe Go Travel Direct with Kids, Water Adventures, By Sylvia Arad

Gulte Route Map

Sailing the Turquoise Coast, Turkey’s jagged azure blue southwest coastline was a family-friendly adventure that was like no other and surpassed all our expectations. 

Our gulet, a traditional wooden Turkish yacht, was the most beautiful on the high seas with its  mahogany wood grain hull and blue masts. We had chartered the six-cabin yacht for our extended family vacation.  For 10 days, this was to be our home – a luxurius, relaxing and adventurous way to see Turkey where there was plenty to do, both on-board and off. 

Sailing on Our Gulet

Inside Cabin

Inside Cabin 2

Our yacht docked at small marinas, sheltered lagoons and hidden coves.  We hiked the countryside and enjoyed the turquoise sea from secluded anchorage by swimming, kayaking, wind surfing and fishing.  The mix of hikes, ancient ruins, legendary swims and water activities, and time to relax lazily on deck created an intimate family-friendly pace for adults, seniors and children alike.  Discovering the regions coastal villages, some accessible only by boat, hiking in the pine forests and exploring Hellenic ruins, we gained an expansive vision of the land. 

Rock Cave Tombs Near Dalyan

En route, at Olu Deniz, the stunning Blue Lagoon, a sheathe  of calm blue waters captivated us.  Off the beaten path, we hiked to ancient Lydae, with its tombs, Corinthian columns and basilica from Roman and Byzantine periods.  We stopped at Dalyan, a sleepy fishing village whose beach is a breeding ground for Loggerhead Turtles, and took a side trip, kayaking  on the Calbis River, where spectacular  scenery and rock-cave tombs greeted us. At the secluded Orhaniye Bay, an ancient acropolis and the ruins of a medieval castle set the backdrop to the small eponymous village.  Bencik Bay, a miniature fjord-like inlet, provided breathaking vists of limestone mountains dropping precipitously  into the sea.  Elsewhere pine forests stretched out hiding a wealth of golden beaches, deep gulfs and tiny offshore islands.  Further on, we visited  at the ancient city of Knidos, a sensational site of maritime trade.  We moored at the city’s ancient harbor just as Hellenic merchants would have done over two millennia  ago, only to gaze in wonder at its monuments -  rows of   houses, a small theater and miles upon miles of fortifications. We looped through Gorkova Bay and visited the English Harbor, where Britain hid submarines during World War II, then  Cleopatra’s Island and the quiet seaside village of Oren, with its appealing  market.

Ruins at Knidos

Anchoring in Bodrum

Meals on Board

On occasion, we slept outside on the gulet’s cushioned deck, dozing to the panorama of stars in the jet-black sky. Waking to the soft swish of gentle waves hitting the bow, we enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast of freshly prepared Turkish delights before greeting another wonder-filled day.

Turkey holidays are incomplete without sailing on a gulet.Off the magical coast of Turkey, we drank in the landscape to rediscover that every day is a journey of discovery.  Having sailed the exquisite waters of the Turquoise coast, our family adventure had only begun.

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Mallorca’s Top 3 Hidden Gems

On November 19, 2010, In From Rails to Sails: Europe Go Travel Direct with Kids, Uncategorized, By Sylvia Arad

Palma de Mallorca at night

Mallorca is a great island destination catering especially to family holidays.  It is possible to experience a little of everything on this paradise island, which boasts great beaches, mountains and some world class sites.   Yet for those looking to discover some of the  lesser-known sights,   here are some of Mallorca’s hidden gems:

 

 

C’An Det Olive Oil Press

Olives have been grown in Mallorca since they were introduced by the Romans.    One of the 3 remaining mills of its kind in Mallorca, C’An Det Olive Oil Press in the Soller Valley   continues extracting olive oil by traditional methods, using original millstones and a hydraulic press.  The olives are ground by the millstones, then pressed hydraulically, after which the oil is extracted.  The process is fascinating, especially so since this farm is run by the descendents of its first owners, who started the press in the 16th century.

Visits must be arranged in advance.

Palma to Soller Railway

Train from Palma to Soller

The train line from Palma, Mallorca’s capital city, to Soller opened in 1912.  The only one of its kind in use today, the train’s carriages date from its inception and still hold their original character, straight out of an Agatha Christie novel, with their leather seats, old-fashioned lights, small brass luggage racks and sash windows.

The charm of this train, especially for children, is that it goes through 13 tunnels on its way from Palma to Soller.  The train travels northwards, winding its way steeply up into the mountains.  Between tunnels, the views are spectacular.  Reaching the Soller valley, you’re greeted by beautiful mountains, olive trees and orange groves, and lovely whitewashed homes.  The town of Soller  is a small, charming town dominated by the old train station and a lovely central square.

Soller

From Soller to Port de Soller, only 15 minutes further, a small local open-air tram operates.  The tram travels in rickety-clackety-clack fashion along the coast.  Arriving at the harbor, there are cliffs on either side and a short distance away,  you’ll find the lighthouse  which boasts a stunning view from the top. 

Puerto Soller Lighthouse

View of Soller from Lighthouse

Palma’s Garden of Alfabia

These little-known gardens date back to the 13th century and serve as a passage back in time with their splendid character.  Designed in Moorish style as a reflection of paradise on earth, the gardens are indeed a paradise.  Water is an essential element throughout the gardens – the alfogras, or gurgling waters here are both decorative and practical.  The ‘juegos de aguas’, the water fountains, holds a pergola with 72 columns and 24 hydras that spout jets of water creating an interlaced pattern that produces a dazzling spectacle.  The colorful flowers surrounding the gardens and  terraces are amazing, and the fruit and palm trees soar to the sky.

Alfabia Gardens

Wandering amongst  jasmines, oranges, poplar groves and the pergolas,  and the movement of water, you can’t help but admire the interplay between the flora and usage of water as a design element in creating a haven of tranquility and unique beauty.

car rental Palma

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Best Family Vacation Destinations – Active Holidays on Mallorca

On November 16, 2010, In Biking & Hiking, From Rails to Sails: Europe Go Travel Direct with Kids, Outdoor Adventure Travel, Water Adventures, By Sylvia Arad

Mallorca, the largest of the Balearic Islands off the coast of Spain, is an adventure travel haven for families.  Beyond its sunny beaches, its amazing scenery, its wonderful rugged mountains, if offers up a feast of active vacation experiences for every age.  Ideal for families with youngsters of all ages and for multigenerational family travel, Mallorca promises an unforgettable holiday for all. The islands top 3 adventure pursuits include hiking, cycling and water sports of every sort: 

Walking and Hiking in Mallorca’s Northwestern Mountains

Tramuntana Mountain Range

Dominated by the Tramuntana Mountain range, the northwestern region is Mallorca at its most spectacular with its breathtaking scenery.  It is also a walker’s and hiker’s paradise with trails winding through pretty hill villages, tumbling at intervals to rocky caves and home to some of the most historical and picturesque towns on the island.

Boquer Valley with view to the sea

Among the many holidays on foot in the area, an easy walk takes you from the town of Puerto Pollensa through the spectacular Boquer Valley to Boquer Bay, where you can enjoy a cool swim.  Or start with a visit to Lluc Monastery, Mallorca’s most sacred site  nestled high in the mountains and home to a Baroque church built between 1622-24.  A good time to arrive is when the boys choir sings, daily at 11 am.  From here, a 2-hour climb among scented pine and cypress trees, spotting black eagles en route to Puig de Tomir, rewards you with an incredible view of the island.  There are many more walking and hiking routes in the region for all abilities.

 

 

Lluc Monastery

Cycling

Family holidays spent cycling in the mountains, on the coastline on this paradise island’s many biking trails offer the very best of adventures.  Cycling is very safe in Mallorca since most of the roads are virtually traffic free. A trip on wheels up the hills in the Northwest will take you to some truly breathtaking views, in the midst of plant and animal life at its best.

Valldemossa

 

Deia

A cycling trip between Valldemossa, a lovely little town with pretty houses and cobblestone streets at the top of a picturesque valley, and Deia, with its stunning setting to the backdrop of lush, green mountains, is an absolute must.  A family biking trip is not complete without visiting bustling Palma, Mallorca’s capital city.  Surrounding the city, you’ll pass through some stunning neighborhoods and interesting historical sights, including monuments from Roman, Byzantium, Italian and Arab times.  The remains of the Moorish mosque under the Gothic style Cathedral La Seu and Bellver Castle, a 14th century royal fortress surrounded by scented pine, are not to be missed.

Palma's Cathedral La Seu

 

Whether you’re looking to cyle near the coast to take in spectacular sea views or prefer biking inland around small villages which offer a glimpse into Spanish culture and life, there are biking opportunities for every age and level  in Mallorca.

Water Sports Galore

The biggest beach on Mallorca is at Alcudia in the north. Extending from the port of Alcudia for over ten miles, beaches of golden sand provide an ideal spot for aquatic adventures.  Thought there is a great variety of watersports throughout the island’s coastline – parasailing, boating, surfing, etc., this is the area for the greatest assortment of watersports and incudes windsurfing, sialing, kitesurfing, catsailing, sea kayaking and scuba diving.  Beyond magnificent watersports and beaches here, the nearby Parc Natural de S’Albufera, the largest wetland Nature Reserve in the Balearics, is home to many rare wildlife , plant and bird species. Alcudia’s Old Town walls still house ancient mansions from Moorish and Roman times, and the ancient city of Pollenta is not far away.

For sheer adventure, take the kids for a swim on Formentor Beach.  Getting there is an adventure as dramatic and hairy as any child could wish – driving nearly  upside-down in a valley of holes and fissures!  Getting there is well worth the effort – the sea is azure blue-purple and the beach is a wonderful place for cool swims and relaxation after a worthwhile struggle.

Formentor Beach

Mallorca offers up cheap family holidays for the  many other adventure pursuits as well,  among them horseback riding, caving, climbing and even tennis – all can be experienced here!

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Adventure Travel Holidays in Spain’s Pueblos Blancos

On November 9, 2010, In From Rails to Sails: Europe Go Travel Direct with Kids, Outdoor Adventure Travel, By Sylvia Arad

 Inland from Spain’s heavily developed southwestern coastal strip, the Pueblos Blancos sit loftily on Andalucía’s hillsides.  These charming “White Villages” acquire their name from their pristinely whitewashed buildings, resplendent and sparkling brightly against the dazzling sun.   Perched high on the hills between the coast on the west and the Ronda Mountains on the east, these towns offer an escape into natural surroundings, a glimpse into traditional Spanish life and lots of active adventure.  Settled by Berbers during the eight centuries of Moorish rule, these villages, which were under the constant threat of attack were easily defensible and served as the border between Moors and Christians.  

Towards Arcos de la Frontera

Winding slowly east into the mountains,  high peaks, jagged crags, gorges, chasms and caves, and an occasional goat grazing on the hillsides take the place of beaches and crowds, with breathtaking views at every bend.   Heading inland, Arcos de la Frontera, one of the prettiest towns in Spain, comes into view.   Situated near the Guadalate River, high above a precipitous gorge, the town was an important Moorish stronghold and boasts spectacular vistas of olive groves, vineyards and bull and horse farms. Possessing an old-world charm, this lovely village is packed with history.

Arcos de La Frontera

The National Parks in the Region

Picturesque Zahara de la Sierra, a typical fortified White Village, straddles a hilltop overlooking the wide, blue waters of the Embalse de Zahara, a man-made reservoir more like a natural lake.   The town lays claim to a Moorish castle sitting high above on a rocky crest, which overlooks a lovely baroque church.   From Zahara de la Sierra, a narrow mountain road winds and twists its way up to Grazalema, an idyllically  beautiful, well-kept small town.  Renowned for its many bubbling fountains, Grazalema has a wetter climate than its neighbors, its reward being its setting in the heart of the verdant Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema.  To the south and west of the Grazalema National Park, the National Park of Los Alcornocales, one of the world’s largest cork oak forests, forms the backdrop of an area of outstanding beauty and is home to rare species of Andalucian wildlife including mountain goats, red deer and wild boar.

Parque los Arconocales

Ronda’s Dramatic Setting

Snaking a way up past panoramic views of silvery green olive groves en route to Ronda , the small charming towns of Montijaque and Benaojan boast  ancient caves with great Paleolithic cave drawings.  Ronda, the largest of the Pueblos Blancos, sits on a limestone plateau, split by the El Tajo Gorge.  Its dramatic setting above the enormous gorge, which drops over 100 m. below, made Ronda one of the last Moorish bastions to fall.  Spanning the gorge are 3 exceptional bridges, the most spectacular of these being an 18th century construction standing on two massive pillars built at the bottom of the gorge.

Crossing the bridge to Ronda

Breathtaking Ronda

On the edge of the crevice, dazzling white Moorish buildings with intricate window grilles of metal decorate Ronda’s Old Town.  In this setting, the Palacio de Mondragon, used by kings as a palace and the most important building in town, features amazing views from its gardens.  Located in the Mercadillo (“Little Market”) in the newer part of town, Ronda boasts one of Spain’s oldest bullrings, and the nearby Church of Santa Maria la Mayor, originally a mosque converted to church, is an interesting blend of Moor and Christian architecture. With its fascinating history, Ronda is a city well worth exploring.

Mondragon Palace Courtyard

 

In addition to a relaxed respite into local Spanish culture, this Andalucian region features a multitude of   activities:  Walking and hiking, horseback riding, caving, paragliding, wind and kite surfing are just some of the many adventures on offer.  The countryside is   stunning,  the  white cobbled towns charming, and the easy-going, warm and friendly locals   mark the Andalucian character.  Life’s leisurely pace is infectious here and is  like a breath of cool, fresh air in Spain’s sizzling climate.

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Vacations to Go – Northern Spain by Train from Oviedo to Ferrol

On October 30, 2010, In Archeology & Culture, From Rails to Sails: Europe Go Travel Direct with Kids, Outdoor Adventure Travel, By Sylvia Arad

We begin the second part of our train adventure in Oviedo, the capital of Asturias.

In the streets of Oviedo

Oviedo’s quaint Old Town with its maze of narrow streets clusters around the magnificent cathedral, San Salvador.  It was here that King Alfonso II set in motion the enduring religious rite of Christian pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela, when, upon hearing of the discovery of the tomb  St. James the Apostle, he left on the first such pilgrimage.  This lovely, compact town, surrounded by mountains and beautiful green nature,  was to be our base for the next few days, as we explored its lovely sights, its Museo Bellas Artes with its beautiful El Greco and Goya works, its streets dotted with modern sculptures,  its many tapas bars  and lively main square with grand performances by Spanish singers.

Oviedo's Cathedral

Carving an improbable course through improbable terrain, after our stay in Oviedo, we continue westwards towards the Atlantic coast as the FEVE train rumbles on.  There is a sense of timelessness throughout this relaxed journey.  For adventurers who want to feel the country and its people, up-close and local, this is the way to go.  People get on. People get off.  You may chat with your travel companions who are women on the way to their favorite butcher in the next town, or a young couple taking their dog to the nearest vet, or a group of bikers with their bikes in the luggage compartment.

Luarca

We arrive inLuarca , the white town on the green coast, a drop-dead gorgeous fishing port wedged between towering cliffs along a river that opens onto the sea.  This a great place to sample Asturias’ famous cider, which is very big here.  Sitting at one of the many sidrerias running along the harbor, we watch the sun set.

Playa de las Catedrales

 

Viviero's Gallerias

Early next morning, we continue to Ribadeo, opting to skip the detour to Gijon.  This small city dominates the Rio Eo estuary which borders Galicia and Asturias.  We stop off to see the not-to-be-missed stunning vaulted arches, caves and rock formations of the nearby Playa de Las Catedrales on the Mar Cantabrico of the Biscay Bay, among the most beautiful beaches in Spain.  Our next stop, Viviero, with its rows of tiny houses along the harbor, boasts impressive gallerias, elaborate glass enclosed balconies. This medieval walled town houses 14th to 16th century monuments like the Gate of Charles V and the Convent de las Concepcionistas, with its replica of the Lourdes grotto.

About 20 stops and a half hour out of Ferrol, we enter heavily forested silver-blue Eucalyptus valleys.  The scenery opens onto vistas of the azure Atlantic when we pass Ortigueira on the northernmost tip of Spain.  As the train weaves in and out of tunnels, the stunning fjord-like entrance of the Rio do Barquiero comes into view. Approaching the terminus at Ferrol, we pass round rocky headlands on the wild Atlantic coast to catch glimpses of the sea pounding the shore.

Approaching Rio do Barquiero

Our final destination, Santiago de Compostela, is reached by coach only.  The resting place of St. James, this is the last stop on the Pilgrim’s trail – the Camino de Santiago, since the 9th century.  This jewel in the crown, with its historic streets, boasts the lovely Plaza del Obradoiro, the Platerias and a stunning cathedral.

Evening in Santiago de Compostela

Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela

  For those preferring a “Rail Cruise” , the FEVE tracks are also the route of the world-renowned El Transcantabrico, among the most famous and romantic train excursions in the world, which loops from Leon to Santiago de Compostela in 8 days, with coach trips, gourmet food and lovely sleeping quarters on board.  Whether traveling on your own or on the “Rail Cruise”, this amazing rail adventure links history, art, spectacular ecclesiastical architecture and the stunning rugged landscapes of   northern Spain in a magnificent not-to-be-missed  train journey.

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Vacation to Go – Northern Spain’s Bilbao to Oviedo by Train

On October 27, 2010, In Archeology & Culture, From Rails to Sails: Europe Go Travel Direct with Kids, Outdoor Adventure Travel, By Sylvia Arad

Feve Route Map

The allure of northern Spain’s green heart captivates the senses.  A journey into “Green Spain”, as it is commonly known, is an adventure into breathtaking landscapes, extraordinary people and enchanting places with a vibrant heritage and history. Reaching from the Basque country on the northeast Franco-Spanish border across 800 km to the Atlantic coast, “Green Spain” can best be explored by train.

FEVE  Railway, northern Spain’s principal rail artery and greatest measure of narrow gauge railway network in Europe spans across the entire region.  Snaking its way in and out of pre-Romanesque and medieval towns and villages, this narrow-gauge train slowly meanders in relaxed clackety-clack fashion across the 1500 km of tracks, over high craggy mountains and lush green meadows to attractive beaches and rugged coastal life,  climbing  steep ravines and gorges while hugging the jagged coastline.  With over 250 stops en route  on direct trains and many more on local trains, the FEVE network traverses all Spain’s northern provinces, from mountainous Basque country through Castilla y Leon, to coastal Cantabria and Asturias  reaching green Galicia on the northwest coast.

Bilbao Concordia Station

Our adventure is a real treat and begins as we depart Concordia, the lovely colorful FEVE  Station in Bilbao that would make even Gaudi blush!  Pulling out of Bilbao’s tunnels, the countryside bursts forth in all its glory.  At first, a crumpled landscape with some cattle and sheep grazing contentedly and a few vines here and there, but almost immediately, the train turns up a narrow hinterland valley, climbing higher and higher until it breaks free into green meadows and byres, and the wooded passes and mountains. From here on, we encounter estuaries, tiny villages and historic cities, seaside resorts and white water Rivers putting us right in the midst of northern Spain’s natural beauty and its day-to-day life far from the madding crowd. 

Santander

After a delightful ride, we approach Santander, a charming and very accessible north coast city, with wide, tree-lined streets, a pristine beach with soft sand and an elegant seafront that puts the French Riviera to shame.  As in Bilbao, the FEVE station sits smartly on the edge of the historic town center.  We opt to hop off and spend the night here.  Continuing early next morning, the summits of the Picos de Europa beckon to us on our way  to Santillana del Mar, with its stone houses dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries.  We stop at Altamira   to see the unique and colorful Paleolithic cave paintings painted by the Magdalenian people between 16,000-9,000 BC.  

Cave Painting at Altamira

Inside Santillan del Mar

  

 
At Llanes, a lively little fishing village in eastern Asturias, we get off to take a a funicular to Bulnes, to view the imposing Bulnes de Naranjo peaks  high in the Picos de Europa,    one of the wildest mountain ranges in Europe.

View of the Picos de Europa

From here, we travel to Oviedo.    Running along the coast, the train follows the route of the Sella River as it twists its way through the green hills to the seat at Ribadesella. We arrive in Oviedo, the capital of Asturias and our last stop, where our grand family  adventures by train come  to a temporary halt.

Entering Oviedo

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