How does exploring a land of hilltop villages, seaside resorts, great adventure and active family vacationing sound?  It’s all very doable on the Istrian Peninsula, formerly a part of Italy and today the gem of Croatia’s northern coast.  Indeed, the juxtaposition of Italian-influenced coastal resorts and inland Croatian villages is possibly Istria’s most compelling feature.  Both groups were preceded by Illyrian tribes and ruled throughout by Romans, Byzantium, Venetians and Austrians.  However, Italian influence prevails throughout the region.

Every day is a new adventure outdoors on the Istrian peninsula.  Be it active exploration of hilltop villages, water adventures of every kind on the coast, agrotourism on its olive oil farms, wine road and truffle forests, you move at your own relaxed pace here,  absorbing the area’s Mediterranean Tuscan-like  charm.

Opatija

Opatija

Elegant Opatija lies at the center of the Istrian Riviera, its lush green scenery, warm waters and mild climate provide a relaxing setting in harmony with nature., while its stream of foreign visitors provide the excitement.  The Benedictine Abbey established here in 1420, around which the town settled, lends its name to Opatija, meaning abbey.  The backdrop of the city, Mt. Ucka provides some great hiking trails, and a view from the mountain top is superb.  Exploring the small fishing villages in the area also make for great adventure.  The contrast of lush gardens and an azure sea, lively entertainment venues and quiet natural settings for excursions, water sports and land activities galore all combine to make Opatija a very attractive Croatian destination.

Agrotourism

Lovely Hilltop Motovun

The 14th century fortified town of Motovun, built by the Venetians, as was much of Istria, sits atop a hill overlooking vineyards and olive oil farms.  This is an area to experience agrotourism at its best.  Quaint doesn’t even begin to describe the mountains and hilltop villages, to the setting of purple-mauve skies, which provide an unforgettable   scene of the sinking sun.  Accommodations in traditional stone buildings, food grown where you’re staying, local olive oil and wine, and the pleasure of relaxed conversation with locals and guests around a stone fireplace after dinners works its magic, creating a sense of deep inner peace.  Hiking and biking trails abound here and the drive to the nearby sea is short.

Seaside Towns

Inside Porec

In Istria, the allure of the sea is ever-present.  Porec, with its Italian influence has some amazing historical sites.  The Basilica of Euphrasius, A UNESCO World Heritage Site, is prominent.  This 16th century most beautifully decorated complex, with its superb apse mosaics represents an impressive synthesis of classical architecture of the times with the more ornate elements that had begun to develop in the East.  The gilt-tiled mosaics literally illuminate the apse and are reason enough to travel to Porec.

 

Mosaics in Basilica of Euphrasius

Surrounded by hills covered with pines, Rovinj is the best loved towns of the Istrian Peninsula.  This beautiful old town sits on a hill where you can easily lose your way among the winding, narrow cobbled streets.  The church of St. Euphemia, built in 1736, is perched atop the hill, its tower modeled after St. Mark’s in Venice.  From here, the view of lively seaside cafes and fishing boats bobbing in the harbor, to the backdrop of 13 small islands in the distance is astounding.  This is the place for a boating adventure to Crevn, Otok or Katarina, some of these lovely offshore islands, or for scuba diving t o the Baron Gautsch wreck.

Since all of Istria is easily managed by short car jaunts, the array of choices are amazing – be it exploring, lodging or dining – the selections are absolutely outstanding!

Hvar harbor

Ask any image-conscious Croatian, and you’ll probably be told that the most beautiful of the over 1000 Croatian Islands is Hvar.  Indeed, exploring Hvar was the highlight of our sailing adventures on the Dalmatian Coast.

We anchored in Stari Grad, the oldest town in Croatia.  Despite its central location at the heart of the Adriatic coast’s trading routes, there was no permanent settlement here before 385BC, when the Parans, of Ionian Greek origin, established the colony of Pharos, and subsequently, Croatians settled here.  The town became known as StariGrad, a singularly appropriate name meaning old town.   From here, we took a local bus to Hvar town, considered the most striking of Hvar island’s villages.  The ride through Hvar’s rugged interior, a palm-sweating, white-knuckle trip, is stunning, especially in spring when the blue-mauve lavender adds its colors to the scenery and perfumes the air.

Sunset in Hvar

We arrived for our first view of the splendid town at sunset.  As we came around the bend, taking in the panorama, we gasped:   Idyllic Hvar shimmered before us, curved around its uniquely indented harbor with docked boats of all description, its grey flecked buildings interposed between the brilliant white of the wharf and the blue of the Adriatic, and crowned atop,  its castle fort with walls trailing down to the town.  Scores of couples and families strolled its brilliant promenade, rimmed with lively cafes and restaurants.

A View from the Citadel

We wandered through the town’s ancient walled gate where cobblestone paths wound in a maze of architectural wonders – sculptured porticos, ancient wooden doors and bridges spanning alleyways, leading up the town’s steep hills towards the castle.  The imposing citadel atop was the perfect spot to begin our explorations.  The unparalleled hilltop views of the town, the brilliant harbor and countryside provide an unmatched sense of the town’s environs.  Built by the Venetians in the 1550’s, Hvar was destroyed in 1571 when Uli Ali’s galleons razed the town to the ground.  Having been entirely rebuilt, it is one of Dalmatia’s best preserved towns.

Climbing up to the Citadel

On the square’s south side, the Venetian arsenal, considered an architectural highlight, today houses the town’s theater.  The waterside Franciscan Monastery and simple church, built in 1583, is striking and the last of the historic sights in the conventional sense.

More than its historic allure, Hvar’s appeal is visual – its true beauty isn’t a matter of any individual building or site, but rather the combination of its parts, set together between its idyllic harbor and its shining sandstone buildings, to the backdrop of its lush Mediterranean mountains.

Chartering a boat to cruise the Dalmatian coast, where  scenic islands are just a few hours sail apart and protected harbors welcome overnight boats is probably the easiest and best way  to experience the beauty of the Adriatic Sea up close and to explore otherwise inaccessible islands, coves and villages. This was one of our best family vacation adventures ever!

Korcula

We started out in Dubrovnik and set sail toward Split, focusing on the southern Dalmatian coast, which boasts some of the most spectacular wooded islands and warm crystalline waters. The many isles we passed- Lopud , Mljet, Korcula, Vis, Hvar and Brac – just a few of the over 1100 islands found along the Croatian coast, were picturesque,  white limestone-laden and pine-clad.  We anchored in beautiful fishing village coves, where we relaxed and swam,  enjoyed spectacular views, ashore adventures and great seafood.  

Veliko Jezero

On Mljet  island, we took a side trip, one of the highlights of our adventure, to scenic Mljet National Park where we hopped on bikes and cycled around Velliko Jezero, the salt water lake with a remarkable 12th century Benedictine monastery set upon an islet in the lake’s center. 

Korcula at Sunrise

We neared Korcula early morning, where we had one of the best photo opportunities in all Croatia – the early morning sun shining on the orange-yellow-ochre of the stone walls, towers and tiled roofs of the Old Town served to create an awesome artists’ portrait.  This walled pedestrian town is a delight, full of architectural treasures and its centerpiece, the beautiful 13th century Cathedral of St. Mark. 

We anchored in the lovely small fishing village of Komiza, on Vis Island that evening.  The quay lined with restaurants beckoned us invitingly.  Here, the streets gently climb the hills into tiny residential areas whose homes embrace walled gardens where fruit trees abound.  High  above the village, a formidable castle illuminated the night sky giving a fairy tale aura to an already enchanting town.  A small boat excursion the next day took us to nearby Bisevo Island, home to the Blue Grotto, with its amazing cobalt-blue waters.

Blue Grotto

Sailing north, we moored in StariGrad, once known as Pharos and the oldest settlement on Hvar Island.  Endless lavender fields and vineyards cover this lovely island and Hvar town is not to be missed! Making our way towards Split, our last stop was Brac Island where we anchored in Supetar harbor, a small, peaceful village exhibiting the authentic high-quality stone used for many sculptures and in the building of the With House.  This was the ideal finale for a perfect sailing adventure.

Our sailing trip on the Dalmatian coast was the crowning highlight of our trip to Croatia – a boating paradise of turquoise waters, safe harbors, hidden coves and swimming holes, plenty of adventures ashore, and one of the best family vacation destinations!

Hvar's Lavender Fields